Author Topic: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition by Larsen E. Pettifoger  (Read 15374 times)

Hedley Lamarr

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As seen in the June and July 2008 Cowboy Chronicle, reproduced here with bigger photos!

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf


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« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 09:40:26 PM by Hedley Lamarr »
Hedley Lamarr

"There's a special rung in hell reserved for people who waste good scotch." - Lt. Archie Hickox

Hedley Lamarr

  • Territorial Marshal
  • Bama Belle says that I am "Roguishly Handsome"...
Re: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2008, 09:29:09 PM »
Part Two is posted. See the first post.
Hedley Lamarr

"There's a special rung in hell reserved for people who waste good scotch." - Lt. Archie Hickox

Qball

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  • Blackpowder Shooter
Re: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition
« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2008, 02:00:41 PM »
Thank You very much :toast:

white river jim

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Re: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2009, 02:42:36 PM »
Howdy folks.
I want to thank the nice folks here for having such a nice forum and for the great info on tuning the Pieta; two of which I'll be shooting starting the next meeting or two.
white river jim

Tom Gray

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Great article!  I just went through this on my new Pietta 1860 Army regarding fitting the bolt.

What I learned was that, at full cock, the hand was actually holding the cylinder against the bolt, but that on two of my chambers (the two with the narrowest locking notches) the bolt wasn't fully dropping into the slot.  As the hammer began to fall, and as it took the hand down with it, the hand would drag against the ratchet and actually rotate the cylinder out of battery a little.

I measured up all of the notches per the instructions in this writeup, and determined that I needed to remove a little metal from the bolt.  I followed the instructions posted, and tested the bolt manually in each of the cylinder notches until I got it to fit each one.  Next I reassembled the action, but I left the hand out!  I could then bring the hammer to half-cock, rotate the cylinder to just slightly short of being in battery for each chamber, then go to full cock, and manually rotate the cylinder the last little bit and feel the bolt drop into each notch.  I could then test the feel of the lock up knowing that I wasn't being fooled by the hand partially holding the cylinder into battery.

Worked great!

logeorge

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Re: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition by Larsen E. Pettifoger
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2011, 07:13:45 AM »
For what it's worth, I have a Uberti 1861, a Pietta 1851 and a Colt Signature Series Pocket Navy. All have short cylinder arbors. The '61 is 0.125" short, the '51 is 0.085'" and the Pocket Navy hasn't been measured, but looks like about 0.025-0.030". No permanent corrections have been made to any of them. By placing a #8 hex nut in the arbor bore on the barrel of the '61 (nut is 0.130" thick) the cylinder gap measures 0.010" on one side and 0.008" on the other.  My plan is to make the proper size bushings for my Brownell forcing cone reamer set, true the breech end of the barrel to around 70% clean-up with the facing cutter and re-check. Then if after adjusting the arbor length or the hole depth to get the frame and barrel lug to meet, either face more off the breech end of the barrel (if gap is too small) or remove the necessary amount from the barrel lug and arbor to get about 0.006" barrel to cylinder gap. Any comments or suggestions appreciated.  L. O. G. 

concho

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Re: Tuning the Pietta Cap & Ball for Competition by Larsen E. Pettifoger
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2013, 12:31:32 PM »
Check cylinder by setting it up in vise and using indicator to see if cylinder bore is not off set while drilling it out occurred,  which would make it cam up and down as it turns, I had that happen to a 36 cal Navy .